Generally speaking, I advise against taking a car, taxi, or bus due to the heavy traffic—especially in the morning—on Route 1 connecting the two cities.

My recommendation is to take the train using a Rav-Kav card or your phone (see the question “How to get around in Israel”). There are four train stations in Tel Aviv, from north to south: Universita, Savidor Merkaz, HaShalom, and HaHagana. From HaHagana station to the Jerusalem – Yitzhak Navon station, the journey takes 37 minutes, with trains departing every half hour.

The train stops at the airport station, making it the best way to travel from there as well. Another option from the airport is the Sherut (see the question “How to get around in Israel”).

The Sherut can take you directly to a specific address. At the airport exit, minivans wait to be filled; once full, they drop each passenger off at their provided destination. While the comfort level is average, this service is helpful if you have many suitcases, are traveling during Shabbat, or prefer not to take a taxi.

Note: For the time being, from Sunday to Thursday inclusive, the first train is at 06:20 and the last at 00:29. The train does not run on Shabbat (from late Friday afternoon to Saturday evening), and schedules change throughout the year.

To get from the Jerusalem – Yitzhak Navon station to the Jaffa Gate in the Old City, take the Light Rail (Tramway) to the City Hall – Safra station. If you let me know in advance, I could even meet you on the platform.

Quick tip: Instead of paying for each trip separately, pay for a “Hofshi Yomi,” which is a daily pass. Don’t forget to validate your pass every time you board.

It is possible to rent a car from international rental companies (such as Avis) or local ones (Eldan is considered a reputable company). As is the case everywhere, prices vary based on the size of the car, the number of rental days, the mileage allowance, the season, etc. It is possible—and even recommended—to add a collision damage waiver (CDW) to waive your deductible in case of damage, and to refill the tank before returning the vehicle. Rental agencies are located in all major cities and at the airport.

Pay attention to toll roads: Route 6 and the Carmel Tunnels in Haifa. There are no physical toll booths on Route 6, so it is important to check with your rental agency about their specific arrangement with the companies managing the highway. Please note that insurance for an Israeli rental car does not cover Area A, which is under the jurisdiction of the Palestinian Authority. To drive there, you can rent a car from an agency in East Jerusalem. Driving in the centers of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv is generally discouraged. Additionally, blue and white markings on the curb indicate paid parking. However, even these spots may be reserved exclusively for local residents at certain times. Parking is paid via the Pango or Cello apps. For navigation, Waze is the preferred app for Israelis.

Taxis are an option, but they remain the most expensive. Occasionally, some taxi drivers may take advantage of tourists by taking longer routes or detours to increase the fare. For this reason, it is highly recommended to book your taxi using an app, the most common being Gett.

The “Sherut” is a shared taxi (minivan). In some cities, the Sherut follows existing bus lines. It is particularly useful during Shabbat, when public transportation does not run, and for getting from the airport directly to your address. Generally, Sheruts only accept cash.

Public transportation is very well-developed, both between and within cities. You can pay using a card called Rav-Kav (an anonymous card costs 5 NIS) or through several GPS-based apps on your phone. To pay for the bus with your phone, you must scan a QR code. For the train and the Tel Aviv light rail, a camera scans the QR code provided by the app, while for the Jerusalem light rail, you simply click “validate” on the app. A well-known app for this is Moovit, which also provides navigation for public transit. The Rav-Kav card can be topped up at service counters, automatic kiosks at various stations, or via your phone. The top-up apps are Rav-Kav and HopOn. To pay with the Rav-Kav card, simply tap it on the payment terminals.

Every person is unique and has different interests, which is why I strongly recommend building your itinerary in advance with a local guide. I can help you with this, so please don’t hesitate to call me. I will help you construct the foundation of your program. In the meantime, here is a list of the city’s main attractions along with some important details to help you.

The Old City of Jerusalem is, of course, a must-see. You will find sites such as the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Damascus Gate, and the Jewish Quarter. I recommend visiting it with a guide and dedicating a full day to it. Afterward, I suggest returning on your own to wander and explore without a guide, as they can never cover every single corner. Note: the Jewish Quarter is quiet on Saturdays for Shabbat, so I would not recommend a guided tour on a Saturday.

For Christians, the Mount of Olives followed by the Via Dolorosa in the Old City are also significant stops. If you are interested in history and culture, a guide is highly recommended. However, if your primary goal is pilgrimage, a guide is not mandatory.

For fans of archaeology—especially biblical archaeology—as well as for Zionists and families with children, I truly recommend the City of David. Plan for a minimum of 3 hours. It is highly advisable to take a guide or, at the very least, join the group tour organized by the site itself. In the same vein, the Western Wall Tunnels are also a highlight.

Another essential visit is the Temple Mount. However, this visit is logistically complex and may not always interest children. It is more than advisable to use a guide, at least to understand the rules and functioning of the site.

In the New City, I suggest strolling through the three “centers” of Jerusalem:

• The “General” City Center: Located near Jaffa Street.

• The Ultra-Orthodox Jewish Center: This area will be closed from Friday afternoon until Saturday night. It is strongly discouraged to walk through here without first consulting a guide to understand local customs and what to avoid doing.

• The Arab City Center: This is the only area open on Saturday. It is discouraged and can even be dangerous to walk here with items that identify you as Jewish (such as a kippah, etc.).

Another “must-visit” for sightseeing and, above all, for eating, is the Mahane Yehuda Market. You will find dozens of street food stalls, each with its own story and specialties. The best way to experience it is through a culinary tour. I provide my clients with a list of recommended spots within the market. Near the market, you can lose yourself in the charming alleys of Nachlaot.

Finally, I recommend three other sites that are no less important:

• Mount Herzl Cemetery: A significant stop for Jewish and Zionist visitors.

• Yad Vashem: The World Holocaust Remembrance Center and Museum.

• The Israel Museum: One of the most important museums in the world; here you will find, among other things, one of the most extensive archaeological wings globally and the Dead Sea Scrolls.

From early Friday evening until Saturday night after dark, it is Shabbat. Consequently, the Jewish areas of Jerusalem come to an almost complete standstill from Friday afternoon until Saturday evening. While the entire city reopens on Saturday night, during Shabbat you will find no public transportation and very few shops or restaurants open.

My advice for those who do not practice the Jewish faith is to visit the Arab city center or Bethlehem on Saturday. However, a common challenge for tourists is finding somewhere to eat on Friday night, as most restaurants are closed, including all those in and around the market.

Here are two options for your Friday evening meal:

1. Get invited to a Jewish family for the traditional Friday night meal

Every Friday night, 82% of Jewish families gather for a festive family dinner. As Jerusalem is much more religious than the rest of the country, this percentage is even higher there, and it is rare to find a family that doesn’t observe this tradition.

To get invited, you can ask around, especially if you know any Israelis. Israelis are very welcoming and direct—they appreciate the same in others—so please feel truly comfortable asking for an invitation. There are also paid services that connect you with local families who speak English or French.

Here are a few websites that offer this service:

• Eatwith (I highly recommend the meal at Eliana and Jacob’s. Tell them I said hello!)

• Shabbat of a Lifetime

• Jeff Seidel (More geared toward a Jewish audience)

2. Dine at one of the few restaurants open on Friday night

Here is a list of five restaurants that stay open. It is highly recommended to book in advance:

• Mona: Featuring Mediterranean and European fusion cuisine.

• Talbiye: Offering European-style cuisine.

• Notre Dame Rooftop: Located in the French ecumenical center of Notre Dame of Jerusalem (great views).

• Hasadna (“The Workshop”): Serving Oriental and Israeli cuisine.

• Satya: Featuring modern Israeli cuisine.

What is not recommended:

• Eating at a “tourist trap” or a low-quality diner in the Arab part of the city (there are good spots there, but seek specific advice first).

• Just grabbing a quick snack and missing out on the Friday night atmosphere.

• Eating the hotel meal, whether it is a large luxury hotel or a small one.

In your suitcase:

• Electrical Adapters: An adapter for your devices is not always mandatory. The voltage is the same as in Europe. Generally, a phone charger with two round pins will fit into an Israeli socket without any issues. The only common problem is that some European plugs have pins that are slightly too thick for Israeli outlets. However, if you are coming from outside Europe (like North America or the UK), you will definitely need an adapter.

• Weather-Appropriate Clothing: Israel has a cold season, a hot season, and two transition seasons where cold and hot days alternate without warning. Be sure to check the forecast in advance.

• Dress Code: Generally speaking, in Jerusalem—and especially in the Old City, religious Jewish neighborhoods, and Arab neighborhoods—it is advised not to wear clothing considered provocative by locals. However, there is no need to overdo the modesty; unless visiting specific religious sites, there is no requirement to cover your hair or wear only skirts, for example.

• Hat: A hat is highly recommended during the summer months.

On your person:

• Passport & Entry Slip: Always carry your passport along with the small blue slip of paper given at the airport, which serves as your visa.

• Some Cash: There is no reason to carry more than a few hundred Shekels.

• Smartphone: Essential for navigation and transport apps.

• Credit Card: Even if you pay with your phone, carry a physical card if you are renting a car (gas stations are often the only places where the physical card is strictly required).

• Water Bottle: Absolutely mandatory on hot days.

Unfortunately, the existence of the Jewish Nation-State is not accepted by everyone, and those opposed to its existence sometimes use terrorism as a means of pressure.

For the time being, the two primary risks—especially in Jerusalem and its Old City—are knife attacks and missile fire.

Tourists are not targets for knife attacks. Furthermore, the Old City is fully covered by security cameras, and you will see security agents and police officers everywhere. Approximately five percent of Israeli civilians hold a concealed carry permit, and soldiers or police officers on leave are generally armed.

On a personal note, I am an active reserve officer in the IDF infantry with extensive combat experience, and I am armed at all times.

In the event of missile fire, you will hear a siren. The most important thing is not to panic and to understand that the risk to you is minimal. Israel has the best protection in the world, by far, against missile and rocket fire. Do not hesitate to ask anyone around you for help.

What to do during a siren:

• Find a shelter: There is a reinforced room (Mamad) on every floor of modern hotels, in every apartment built after 1990, and usually in the basements of older buildings. Public shelters are located every few hundred meters.

• Follow Civil Defense instructions: You can find the official guidelines for residents in this link: https://www.oref.org.il/eng

As is the case elsewhere, the existence of a terrorist threat requires precautions, but it should not prevent you from visiting and enjoying your stay.

The West Bank (the name given by the Kingdom of Jordan, which occupied the area from 1948 to 1967) comprises parts of the regions of Judea, Samaria, the Jordan Valley, and the Judean Desert. Often referred to simply as Judea and Samaria by Israelis, this land was part of the British Mandate for a Jewish National Home, occupied by Jordan in 1948, and then occupied/conquered/liberated by the IDF in 1967.

Excluding the city of Jerusalem, this territory has been divided into three zones since the 1995 Oslo II Accords:

• Area A: Under full Palestinian Authority control.

• Area B: Under Palestinian civil control and Israeli security control.

• Area C: Under full Israeli control, where half a million Jews reside.

Visiting as a tourist:

Tourists can visit all areas, though conditions vary:

• In Area A: You cannot be accompanied by an Israeli guide, as entry is forbidden to them. If you are driving, check your insurance coverage. While tourists are generally well-received, it is dangerous to be identified with Israel or the Jewish people.

• Bethlehem and Jericho: An Israeli guide can apply for a permit several weeks in advance to guide in these cities. However, I personally do not guide in Bethlehem for several reasons, including allowing local Arab colleagues the opportunity to work in their own city.

• Area C: For tourists and their guides, there is no functional difference between Area C and the rest of Israel.

• Checkpoints: Checkpoints exist at the exits of the West Bank; it is important to have your passport and entry slip ready.

What to visit in Judea and Samaria?

This is a non-exhaustive list:

• Bethlehem: The Church of the Nativity and the anti-Israel graffiti on the security barrier built by Israel to protect against terrorist attacks.

• Rachel’s Tomb: Located in Bethlehem but accessible from Israeli sovereign territory.

• The Dead Sea: Visiting the shores currently in recession.

• Qasr al-Yahud: The site of the crossing of the Tribes of Israel and the baptism of Jesus.

• Qumran: The archaeological site linked to the Dead Sea Scrolls.

• Judean Desert Monasteries: Ancient sites built into the cliffs.

• Ein Prat: A spring and river in the heart of the desert.

• The Inn of the Good Samaritan: A site and museum of mosaics.

• Jericho: Tel Jericho (one of the oldest cities in the world), Hisham’s Palace, and the Hasmonean Palaces.

• Herodium: The palace, fortress, and burial place of King Herod in the desert.

• The Cave of the Patriarchs: Located in Hebron.

• Ancient Shiloh: The biblical site and first capital of the Tribes of Israel.

• Sebastia: A capital of the Kingdom of Israel and a significant Roman city.

• Nablus and Ramallah: Major Palestinian cities.

• Mount Gerizim: Home to the Samaritan community overlooking Nablus.

Tahini (pronounced Tekh-eena) is a staple sauce in local cuisine made from sesame seeds. One of the favorite brands among Israelis is Har Bracha, produced by the Samaritan factory on the holy mountain overlooking the city of Nablus. Note that Tahini bought at the supermarket is usually a raw paste and needs to be seasoned and thinned with water and lemon.

Hummus is a dish made from mashed chickpeas. Whether mixed with Tahini or not, it can be eaten on its own or, even better, with various toppings. It is traditionally eaten using a piece of bread (a local pita) or even a wedge of raw onion for the more adventurous, used as a “spoon” to scoop up the dip.

Traditionally, Arabs typically eat hummus only in the morning, while Jews eat it at any time of day. My two favorite Hummousiot (a Hummousia is a restaurant specializing in hummus) in Jerusalem are:

• Arafat: Located in the Old City, serving classic Arabic-style hummus.

• Aisha: Located in the Mahane Yehuda Market, serving Israeli-style hummus.

A full refund is available up to 14 days before the visit or in the event of force majeure (unforeseeable circumstances).

How can I book? The easiest way is, of course, to book through the website. You can also book directly with me by phone or message (054-884-11-70) or via email.

How long is a tour? There are short 2-hour tours, 3-hour tours (half-day), and full-day tours (6 hours in Jerusalem, 7 hours outside of Jerusalem).

How long is a lecture? Between an hour and an hour and a half, plus as much time as needed for questions.

What about the weather? Tours are suitable for all weather conditions except for truly extreme cases. In such events, we cancel according to the cancellation policy or switch to an itinerary appropriate for the weather.

Is it possible to book a lecture anywhere in the country? Get in touch with me and we’ll see what can be done.

Are the tours secure? External security can be arranged, but it is important to note that I am armed with a handgun.

Do the tours include transportation? The tours do not include transportation, but I can help you arrange it.